School starts tomorrow, and to put it simply: I'm nervous and excited. Today we had our first teachers' meeting and I met with all of my coworkers (there are 10 of us in all at the school, including the director.) The meeting was 3 hours long and I understood perhaps 10 or 15% of it, which was quite the humbling (and terrifying) experience. Tomorrow's the first day and I have no clue what my schedule is, who I'll be teaching, or how this is supposed to all work, really... but I know I'll get the hang of it all eventually. This is when the amazing words of support from all of you really come in handy-- I can't thank all of you enough for helping me and thinking of me. I think of you often!
AND the main point of this entry is... to talk about the amazing cultural experience I had this weekend at the Festivo de los Diablitos (Festival of the Devils) in Rey Curre!
Rey Curre is also part of the Boruca territory, and the 150 people who live there are also indigenous. The festivals are an annual event held both in Boruca and Curre and feature 3-5 days of celebrations. Hundreds of people come from all over to take part, and there is no word for the spectacle except INCREDIBLE.
The festivals take place to honor and commemorate and acknowledge the interactions of the indios and the conquistadors from Europe, and to celebrate the fact that the Borucan culture has been sustained throughout the generations. The indio men dress up in plantain and palm leaves and wear intricate, amazing hand-carved and painted wooden masks. They represent the "Diablitos" who the Conquistadors (represented by a giant Bull) found when they came to Costa Rica. For the duration of the festival, the Diablitos and the Bull travel in circles around the pueblo, fighting each other as a reenactment of the fights between the Conquistadors and the indios generations ago. The air is filled with shrieks, roars, music, conch shells being blown, recorders being played. Everyone drinks chicha, a fermented corn concoction, and on the final day, the Bull gets burned to signify that the indigenous culture will live on.
...that was a far too simplified explanation of what happens, but I wanted to get to the important part of this post: THE PICTURES!!! Here they be..
First, an example of one of the masks:
Now, an action shot from the festival:
Aaaand last but not least: a baby Diablito!
Moral of the story: This weekend was an intense, impressive cultural experience. I felt honored to be able to experience something so core to the identity of the people here, and at the same time I felt odd for being there. I was keenly aware of being an outsider, especially because there were people at the festival taking pictures of *me* because I was a gringa! ... but whatever, it was totally vale la pena (worth it.)
Alright, everyone. Time to go finish planning for my first day of school!
Besos!
Raquelita
AWESOME pictures! So glad you're having a wonderful experience!
ReplyDeleteHi Rachel,
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like festival was beyond awesome! The masks were very colorful, and the pictures that you took really help us to picture what is going on. I love the child that is dressed in palm leaves, and such. I read your moral of the story, and I think you were right about being honored to be there. Even though you felt odd being there, I'm glad you were there for you, and for all of your blog readers. I can't thank you enough for your pictures and stories. I think that I told you I haven't traveled much, so every little bit helps me out. Take care, and good luck on your first day teaching!